From the workshop · Bootfitting

More room in the toe box

Too tight at the front, fine at the back. Instead of changing the boot, we widened the shell exactly where the toes hit it.

  • Symptom Toes hit the front, go numb or cold
  • Boot Alpine ski boot
  • Time The boot stays with us for about two days
  • Appointment Workshop appointment
Hölzerner Skischuhleisten mit frisch aufgebautem Kork an der Spitze, in der Hand des Bootfitters.

The problem

The customer came in with a ski boot that basically fits: heel locked in, instep fine, length right. Only the front was tight. His toes hit the shell, and after an hour on the piste they went numb. A typical case, says our bootfitter, and one of the most common reasons people come to him.

One size up would have been the wrong answer. The heel would have got play, and the foot would have slid forward with every turn. So it isn't the boot that has to change, only the toe box.

What we did

  1. Measure the foot, prepare the last

    First we trace the feet on paper and take the measurements. Then the matching wooden last comes off the shelf. With a red pen we mark the zone on the last where room is missing.

    Wooden last from the front, toe area marked in red
    The red line shows where room is missing
    Wooden last from the side with red marking
    From the side: only the tip gets built up
  2. Cut and glue the cork

    We cut strips from cork sheets, coat the cork and the last with contact adhesive and let it dry until tacky.

    Cut cork strips on the workbench
    Cork, cut to size
    Contact adhesive being brushed onto a cork strip
    Adhesive on the cork
    Contact adhesive being brushed onto the tip of the wooden last
    Adhesive on the last
  3. Build up the last

    Layer by layer the cork goes onto the toe area until the last has the outline of the foot, plus five to six millimetres of allowance. The allowance is needed because in the boot the foot doesn't stand barefoot but in the liner.

    First cork layer being pressed onto the tip of the last
    The first layer
    Last with built-up cork, from the side
    Built up, not yet ground
    Tip of the last with the cork build-up, held in the hand
    The tip before grinding
  4. Grind it smooth

    On the finishing machine, with sanding belt and flap disc, the cork build-up gets its final shape: smooth, no edges, blending cleanly into the last. This is the part that takes experience.

    Tip of the last being worked on the sanding belt
    Rough on the belt
    Tip of the last being smoothed with the flap disc
    Fine with the flap disc
    Finished, ground cork build-up at the tip of the last
    Done: no step left between wood and cork
  5. Press the last into the shell

    Liner out, last in. A spindle presses it into the shell until the cork build-up sits exactly where the toes hit.

    View from above into the shell with the wooden last inside
    From above into the shell
    Last in the shell, from the side
    Pressed in
  6. Heat the plastic

    With a heat gun we warm the shell in the toe area only, until the plastic gives and moulds itself to the last.

    Heat gun warming the tip of an orange ski boot shell
    Only at the front
  7. Two days of patience

    The last stays in the shell for about two days so the plastic keeps its new shape. Then the last comes out, the liner goes back in, done.

Photos: Sport Schindele, workshop in Ronsberg, October 2026. Customers kept anonymous.

Does your boot pinch in a similar way?

Show us in the fit check where it pinches, or book a workshop appointment straight away. We'll agree on what the work costs with you beforehand.